If there were a “Cheers” in Lancaster, where “everybody knows your name,” I imagine it would be The Lancaster Dispensing Company. The historic Victorian building has an old school feel that’s charming and well-used. Even if it’s your first time there, you walk in and almost feel like you know everyone like a long-lost pal. It’s auspiciously curious.
I like the “Dipco,” but I’ve decided that I will continue to explore parts of the menu with delight, while other parts will be written off entirely.
Their sandwiches are awesome. The Dagwood ($6.95), off their Overstuffed Sandwiches section, was crammed with ham, turkey, salami, swiss, cheddar, lettuce, tomato and mayo between three layers of rye bread. It’s a massively delicious sandwich, such that even if you’re full after eating the first half of the sandwich, it’s so good that you won’t want the experience to end.
Off that same section, the Tenderloin Tip Sandwich ($8.50) was ordered medium rare with the works (add sautéed mushrooms, onions, and green peppers for no additional charge – it’s worth it!). It was served over melted Provolone cheese on a nice crusty roll. Warning – this is a messy, messy sandwich. The culprit is a wonderful Bordelaise sauce that covered everything with its richness. Commence finger licking. Bordelaise is a classic French sauce that is rooted in the Bordeaux region. So it’s no surprise that its base is red wine, with the added flavor and richness that historically comes from beef marrow.
The thing I hate about a messy sandwich is that I impulsively eat it as quickly as possible to limit what must look like a horror show. But this sandwich deserves to be savored, so I allowed myself the enjoyment – who cares if I had sauce on my face from ear to ear?
Now, let’s talk salads. This is a section I don’t care to revisit. We ordered the Buffalo Chicken Salad with Blue Cheese ($9). I liked that it unusually came on a bed of spinach and that the chicken wasn’t breaded or fried. But it was tossed in a bland buffalo sauce, which was barely spicy. More importantly, though, it came in a side salad portion. A horrible value. So while I’m sure there are good-tasting salads on that menu, my fiscal radar won’t allow me to go there again.
This value equation reared its ugly head with the Baked Crap Dip ($6.75) appetizer. The dish itself has great flavor, with fresh crabmeat mixed with cream cheese and white wine. But it comes in this tiny ramekin that a slightly larger-than-average man could eat in one bite if he wanted to.
Fortunately, not all appetizers have this issue. The chicken quesadillas ($7.75) we ordered with guacamole and jalapenos, at added cost, were a good portion. The flour tortillas were crisp and non-greasy, stuffed with peppers, tomatoes, onions and melted cheese. A good, solid appetizer that didn’t leave me feeling ripped off.
Interestingly, I haven’t tried anything off the dinner entrée section because both times I visited, the waitresses steered me away to the sandwiches. It’s clear that they’re the Dipco specialty – even the wait staff knows it. They’re stellar, and they’re a great value. Another great value? The beer. A pint of Sam Adam’s Summer Ale only cost $3.75.
So I’m sticking with anything that comes in between bread. That seems to be a safe bet because, while the food is mostly good at the Lancaster Dispensing Company, I’m just not sure what I won’t get if I order from anywhere else on the menu…
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Cincinnati, part deux
Just got back from the city that brought me Belgian beer. This time, I waltzed my way around the corner of my hotel to JeanRo's, as I am wont to do. At 9PM, I knew they closed late, so I didn't give it a second thought. But then they denied me. I couldn't believe it. They said the night was so slow they shut down the kitchen. Say what? So instead of making a scene, I thought, you know, I should really try something else. After a few go arounds with the JeanRo's staff, I was either going to have nouveau Mexican or a good ol' steak. That's always my backup. Rarely have I found a landlocked state (Ohio!) without good steakhouses.
Nada, the "nothing" Mexican joint, was on the way to Ruby's, the Steakhouse. If I didn't like the nothingness, I could keep right on walking. Open just 8 months ago, Nada had a new, fresh facade. Its interior was nothing short of contemporary and convivial. Great light colored wood and orange accents - I decided I was going to try out some of this nouveau Mexican.
Sitting at the bar, I ordered an Oyster Shooter, the Squid and Shrimp Ceviche, and their Cazuela Sampler. I need to go step by step here.
The Oyster Shooter is presented as the "Mexican Flag." There's a shot of tequila, a glass of the raw oyster marinating in Sangrita, and a lime juice chaser. Get it? White, red, green - the colors of the Mexican Flag? You're supposed to shoot the Tequila, down the oyster while taking just enough time to savor the flavor and texture, then follow up with the lime juice. Takes having a shot of tequila to another level entirely. To be honest, I could have done without the pomp and circumstance. Just give me the oyster in the Sangrita! Delicious. Now, Sangrita should not be confused with Spanish Sangria, which is a red wine based cocktail. Sangrita is a tomato puree with garlic and shallots or onions. It's like Gazpacho's little sister, and it's really delicioso.
The Ceviche was amazingly good. It had a really nice poblano flavor to it, with some orange and lime juice to cook the seafood, and some roma tomatoes and chives to bring out the flavor. Really nice portion, too. Love it when you get a good value.
Lastly, I had the Cazuela sampler. Tinga Poblano Chicken, Pork with Green Chiles, and Lamb with Mint. These are stewed and served in these mini-Le Creuset pots with Poblano rice underneath the stew. Originally, I opted for no lamb. It's shocking, but I don't like lamb. I don't like the gaminess of the lamb, and I can smell it a mile away. I'll tell you the lamb story of the Turkish restaurant with the obstinate Chinese waitress in LA one of these days. It's a classic.
These bad boys are salty. They really are. And if it weren't for the rice, I would really have been in trouble. The chicken was stewed with chorizo in a spicy tomato sauce. Probably the best seasoned out of all of them. Really a rich and tasty dish. The pork was stewed in green chiles, and was WAY too salty. I swear I thought my blood pressure was reaching its max. The lamb was surprisingly less gamey than I thought it would be. While I'm sure a lamb lover would enjoy it, he or she would still think it was too salty. At least, that's what Dan Dell thought.
Earlier in the evening, another guy sat down at the bar a few seats down, and he was clearly known there. The bartender gave him whatever he wanted and wanted to know what he wanted Chef Mike to make for him. He's this regular-looking guy with a lot of attention being lavished on him. He's Dan Dell, the owner of the Buddhakan 2 blocks away.
It's an interesting lesson in how the sub-culture of chefs/owners works. They've got their own little fraternity going on and it's all about quid pro quo. Craig, the bartender is going to take care of him, because when he goes to the Buddhakan later that evening, he'll expect to be taken care of. As does Chef Mike when he comes out to find out how Dan likes the food, because Dan's the one who got me the extra pot of lamb, and hence, he's sharing all of my food. Then again, he's also getting Chef Mike to pitch in chips and guacamole and other small eat items. So it's all good and fair, in my eyes.
The best is when Dan starts saying, "Man, this stuff is SALTY. I can't even EAT it, it's so SALTY." To which Chef Mike is appalled and keeps sending more food out in the hopes that Dan will like SOMETHING. It's a crazy world.
Afterwards, Dan invited me to his bar. He wanted to give me a tour of his Thai/Americana Classic Rock bar. He says he couldn't decide what he wanted the place to stand for. It used to be a Thai restaurant, and he likes Thai food, but he also loves Classic Rock. So he's got these Buddha statues and tons of Thai sculptures on the wall, on the bar, on the tables. But then weaved throughout all that are old school record covers. Stuff like Rod Stewart when he was young and handsome. Bruce Springsteen's first album. Fleetwood Mac in the 70's. Eclectically neat.
That night, I had something other than JeanRo's. As far as food goes, I wish I had JeanRo's Coq au Vin. I was really hankering for some that night. But when it comes to experiences, I couldn't complain about my first brush with the Chef underground. I feel like I'm part of some secret society now. Just call me Bond.
Nada, the "nothing" Mexican joint, was on the way to Ruby's, the Steakhouse. If I didn't like the nothingness, I could keep right on walking. Open just 8 months ago, Nada had a new, fresh facade. Its interior was nothing short of contemporary and convivial. Great light colored wood and orange accents - I decided I was going to try out some of this nouveau Mexican.
Sitting at the bar, I ordered an Oyster Shooter, the Squid and Shrimp Ceviche, and their Cazuela Sampler. I need to go step by step here.
The Oyster Shooter is presented as the "Mexican Flag." There's a shot of tequila, a glass of the raw oyster marinating in Sangrita, and a lime juice chaser. Get it? White, red, green - the colors of the Mexican Flag? You're supposed to shoot the Tequila, down the oyster while taking just enough time to savor the flavor and texture, then follow up with the lime juice. Takes having a shot of tequila to another level entirely. To be honest, I could have done without the pomp and circumstance. Just give me the oyster in the Sangrita! Delicious. Now, Sangrita should not be confused with Spanish Sangria, which is a red wine based cocktail. Sangrita is a tomato puree with garlic and shallots or onions. It's like Gazpacho's little sister, and it's really delicioso.
The Ceviche was amazingly good. It had a really nice poblano flavor to it, with some orange and lime juice to cook the seafood, and some roma tomatoes and chives to bring out the flavor. Really nice portion, too. Love it when you get a good value.
Lastly, I had the Cazuela sampler. Tinga Poblano Chicken, Pork with Green Chiles, and Lamb with Mint. These are stewed and served in these mini-Le Creuset pots with Poblano rice underneath the stew. Originally, I opted for no lamb. It's shocking, but I don't like lamb. I don't like the gaminess of the lamb, and I can smell it a mile away. I'll tell you the lamb story of the Turkish restaurant with the obstinate Chinese waitress in LA one of these days. It's a classic.
These bad boys are salty. They really are. And if it weren't for the rice, I would really have been in trouble. The chicken was stewed with chorizo in a spicy tomato sauce. Probably the best seasoned out of all of them. Really a rich and tasty dish. The pork was stewed in green chiles, and was WAY too salty. I swear I thought my blood pressure was reaching its max. The lamb was surprisingly less gamey than I thought it would be. While I'm sure a lamb lover would enjoy it, he or she would still think it was too salty. At least, that's what Dan Dell thought.
Earlier in the evening, another guy sat down at the bar a few seats down, and he was clearly known there. The bartender gave him whatever he wanted and wanted to know what he wanted Chef Mike to make for him. He's this regular-looking guy with a lot of attention being lavished on him. He's Dan Dell, the owner of the Buddhakan 2 blocks away.
It's an interesting lesson in how the sub-culture of chefs/owners works. They've got their own little fraternity going on and it's all about quid pro quo. Craig, the bartender is going to take care of him, because when he goes to the Buddhakan later that evening, he'll expect to be taken care of. As does Chef Mike when he comes out to find out how Dan likes the food, because Dan's the one who got me the extra pot of lamb, and hence, he's sharing all of my food. Then again, he's also getting Chef Mike to pitch in chips and guacamole and other small eat items. So it's all good and fair, in my eyes.
The best is when Dan starts saying, "Man, this stuff is SALTY. I can't even EAT it, it's so SALTY." To which Chef Mike is appalled and keeps sending more food out in the hopes that Dan will like SOMETHING. It's a crazy world.
Afterwards, Dan invited me to his bar. He wanted to give me a tour of his Thai/Americana Classic Rock bar. He says he couldn't decide what he wanted the place to stand for. It used to be a Thai restaurant, and he likes Thai food, but he also loves Classic Rock. So he's got these Buddha statues and tons of Thai sculptures on the wall, on the bar, on the tables. But then weaved throughout all that are old school record covers. Stuff like Rod Stewart when he was young and handsome. Bruce Springsteen's first album. Fleetwood Mac in the 70's. Eclectically neat.
That night, I had something other than JeanRo's. As far as food goes, I wish I had JeanRo's Coq au Vin. I was really hankering for some that night. But when it comes to experiences, I couldn't complain about my first brush with the Chef underground. I feel like I'm part of some secret society now. Just call me Bond.
The Dieting Food Critic
So I work at a candy company, I am a food critic, and I'm solidly in my 30s. Is it any wonder that I have issues with my weight? The thing is that I just don't know how to adjust. As a chubby kid, I started working out and voila! I was thin.
Today, I'm training for a 220-mile bike ride from Hershey, PA to New York City, and I've managed to gain 5 lbs. How is that possible?
In my voracious reading of all things dieting a few months ago, I think I really screwed myself up. Now I don't remember what I ate when I was thin just a few years ago. I don't know how it was that I didn't gain weight. Possibly because I was working at a beauty care company, and I didn't get paid to eat? Possibly.
But perhaps more importantly, out the door has gone my willpower. I vaguely remember eating just a medium soup and side salad when I was in my early 20s. Perhaps I have fallen into the "Supersize Me" trap. Perhaps I just want to enjoy life, and I perceive that enjoyment to be through good food.
My love for food is equalled by my fear of it. It's a strange paradox.
Today, I'm training for a 220-mile bike ride from Hershey, PA to New York City, and I've managed to gain 5 lbs. How is that possible?
In my voracious reading of all things dieting a few months ago, I think I really screwed myself up. Now I don't remember what I ate when I was thin just a few years ago. I don't know how it was that I didn't gain weight. Possibly because I was working at a beauty care company, and I didn't get paid to eat? Possibly.
But perhaps more importantly, out the door has gone my willpower. I vaguely remember eating just a medium soup and side salad when I was in my early 20s. Perhaps I have fallen into the "Supersize Me" trap. Perhaps I just want to enjoy life, and I perceive that enjoyment to be through good food.
My love for food is equalled by my fear of it. It's a strange paradox.
Monday, September 1, 2008
More Thrill Needed on Strawberry Hill
Strawberry Hill has one of the best ambiences I’ve experience in Lancaster with its captivating barrel door and artful décor. An extremely inviting bistro, I had great expectations. Unfortunately, the charm could not compensate for the unevenness we experienced in the food that evening. Some items were spot-on delicious. Others were decidedly disappointing.
You can’t talk about Strawberry Hill without mentioning their award-winning wine list, which is incredible. It’s a wine list for true connoisseurs…and the wealthy. Most of the wine list has a triple digit cost; a cost I find rather egregious for a spontaneous evening dinner in the middle of the week. Thankfully, there were great wines open for purchase by the glass. I went with the Grayson Cabernet ($10). Big, robust and delicious.
We started with the Crispy Brie Springroll ($9). Brie was encased in a springroll wrapper and lightly fried until the outside was beautifully browned and crisp, and housing a deliciously melted brie. It was perfectly accompanied with berry preserves and sliced strawberries. A great start to the meal.
Next, the soup course. We had the Three Onion Soup ($6) and the Soup du Jour – a Mint Cantaloupe Gazpacho ($8). The onion soup had a rich taste, but had too much of a sweet note. And call me a purist, but one of the great attractions I have to onion soup is the bubbling cheese that covers it all like a blanket. This wasn’t presented that way, nor did it have to be, but while sampling the soup, I pined for the bubbling cheese.
The Mint Cantaloupe Gazpacho was another matter entirely. There was no complexity, no character. It didn’t even have the natural sweetness that a cantaloupe should have. After a few spoonfuls, I didn’t bother eating the rest of it. It was just completely devoid of any panache. The worst part is that they charged me for it anyway. I’m sure if I had said something, they would have taken it off the bill, but at a fine establishment, did I really need to say something? $8 down the drain. Literally.
Salads come with the meal, but the server asked if we wanted one of the specialty salads instead. So we chose the specialty salads, thinking they might charge a substitution price. Instead, we were billed the full cost. Consider yourselves warned.
The Caesar salad ($7) was solid. Nothing uniquely special, it was good. The Tomato Salad ($7) was beautifully presented. The plate was drizzled with basil oil and a balsamic reduction. Four hearty slices of tomatoes then rested on a mound of mixed greens and topped with Maytag blue cheese and toasted pinenuts. A great combination of ingredients. Disappointment came when I started cutting into the tomatoes. Mushiness. Overripe or having been left in the refrigerator, they fell apart the moment the tines of my fork touched them. I mean really, it’s August in Lancaster.
Entrees were the Southern Fried Double Cut Pork Chop ($27) and the Barbequed Kobe Beef Short Rib ($37). The main attraction of each of these dishes was truly spectacular. The pork chop was thick, tender and juicy with a great depth of flavor. The short rib just fell off the bone. Paired with the savory barbeque sauce, it was scrumptious. The side vegetables were great - sautéed greens had a delectable salty bitterness, and the green beans were perfectly cooked - still crisp to the bite. The starches, though, fall short. The housemade baked mac & cheese was incredibly bland, and the asiago polenta had decent flavor, but was dry.
I’m hopeful they were having an off-night because there were sparks of greatness. But those sparks fizzled under poorly executed details. And while the service was good and attentive, they could take it a step further and really ensure their patrons feel they’re taken care of.
You can’t talk about Strawberry Hill without mentioning their award-winning wine list, which is incredible. It’s a wine list for true connoisseurs…and the wealthy. Most of the wine list has a triple digit cost; a cost I find rather egregious for a spontaneous evening dinner in the middle of the week. Thankfully, there were great wines open for purchase by the glass. I went with the Grayson Cabernet ($10). Big, robust and delicious.
We started with the Crispy Brie Springroll ($9). Brie was encased in a springroll wrapper and lightly fried until the outside was beautifully browned and crisp, and housing a deliciously melted brie. It was perfectly accompanied with berry preserves and sliced strawberries. A great start to the meal.
Next, the soup course. We had the Three Onion Soup ($6) and the Soup du Jour – a Mint Cantaloupe Gazpacho ($8). The onion soup had a rich taste, but had too much of a sweet note. And call me a purist, but one of the great attractions I have to onion soup is the bubbling cheese that covers it all like a blanket. This wasn’t presented that way, nor did it have to be, but while sampling the soup, I pined for the bubbling cheese.
The Mint Cantaloupe Gazpacho was another matter entirely. There was no complexity, no character. It didn’t even have the natural sweetness that a cantaloupe should have. After a few spoonfuls, I didn’t bother eating the rest of it. It was just completely devoid of any panache. The worst part is that they charged me for it anyway. I’m sure if I had said something, they would have taken it off the bill, but at a fine establishment, did I really need to say something? $8 down the drain. Literally.
Salads come with the meal, but the server asked if we wanted one of the specialty salads instead. So we chose the specialty salads, thinking they might charge a substitution price. Instead, we were billed the full cost. Consider yourselves warned.
The Caesar salad ($7) was solid. Nothing uniquely special, it was good. The Tomato Salad ($7) was beautifully presented. The plate was drizzled with basil oil and a balsamic reduction. Four hearty slices of tomatoes then rested on a mound of mixed greens and topped with Maytag blue cheese and toasted pinenuts. A great combination of ingredients. Disappointment came when I started cutting into the tomatoes. Mushiness. Overripe or having been left in the refrigerator, they fell apart the moment the tines of my fork touched them. I mean really, it’s August in Lancaster.
Entrees were the Southern Fried Double Cut Pork Chop ($27) and the Barbequed Kobe Beef Short Rib ($37). The main attraction of each of these dishes was truly spectacular. The pork chop was thick, tender and juicy with a great depth of flavor. The short rib just fell off the bone. Paired with the savory barbeque sauce, it was scrumptious. The side vegetables were great - sautéed greens had a delectable salty bitterness, and the green beans were perfectly cooked - still crisp to the bite. The starches, though, fall short. The housemade baked mac & cheese was incredibly bland, and the asiago polenta had decent flavor, but was dry.
I’m hopeful they were having an off-night because there were sparks of greatness. But those sparks fizzled under poorly executed details. And while the service was good and attentive, they could take it a step further and really ensure their patrons feel they’re taken care of.
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