Lina Bierker, former Food Critic of the Lancaster Sunday News, gets around to share her latest gastronomic travels
Friday, October 30, 2009
Yummy Broccoli?!!?
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Hong Kong Garden - Xiang Gang Yuan!
Since my last article, I’ve had Chinese on the mind. Another place that seemed to receive quite a few accolades is Hong Kong Garden. So I gathered up a girlfriend and we headed out.
I ordered similar items for comparison, then rounded out the victuals with some other interesting dishes.
Out rolled a cup of the Hot & Sour soup ($2.95), Potstickers ($5.95), and a Spring Roll ($2.25) to start with. The Hot & Sour soup was great. It was a synergy of powerful flavors that was amazingly well balanced. But with its thick viscosity and over packed plethora of ingredients, it acted more like a filling stew than a soup. You’d never find a Hot & Sour stew in Asia, but I was pleased that the typical ingredients were uncompromised by strange fillers like carrots and celery. And since it was so good, I’ll be coming back for more.
The Potstickers were good but unremarkable. The dough simply overwhelmed the pork center. My friend, who was watching her carbs, cut one in half and said, “Is there supposed to be something in here?” She found the entire center hiding in one half of the dough, ate that, and left the empty side.
Then, the Spring Roll. Before ordering, she asked what the difference was between an Egg Roll and a Spring Roll. I rolled my eyes; it can be a contentious question. Once, a friend refused to talk to me for weeks because we didn’t agree. So here’s my story and I’m sticking to it. It’s all about the wrapper. Yes, the Egg Roll tends to be larger, seemingly filled with more vegetables, but the inner workings of a fried roll are largely the same. The Egg Roll has a wrapper made with egg and tends to be thicker, which lends to its doughiness. The Spring Roll, on the other hand, isn’t made with egg and is quite a bit thinner and more delicate. It’s a much crispier eat, and because it’s smaller, I like the ratio of wrapper to whatever is on the inside. Lastly, I consider the Spring Roll to be much more authentically Asian. In my travels to Asia, I can’t remember a single time I saw an Egg Roll being peddled. It was always a delicate little Spring Roll. And that’s exactly what you get at Hong Kong Garden. It was beautifully crispy, allowing for a satisfying crunch before getting to a soft center of meat and vegetables that all come together so nicely.
Next came the entrees in eye-popping portions; hope you like Chinese leftovers. We ordered Beef Chow Fun ($11.95) and Steve’s Special ($14.50), pan-fried steak sitting over steamed asparagus and topped with French fried onions. Last time, I explained how temperamental Chow Fun can be, so it’s a pretty high hurdle. At Hong Kong Garden, it was still missing the requisite caramelized flavor and many of the noodles were stuck together. Flavor-wise, though, it could pass muster.
Steve’s Special was quite good. The steak was succulent and tempting. And sitting at the bottom, soaking up all that savorilicious sauce, was the asparagus – tender, yet still with some bite. Lastly, I was surprised to see the French fried onions sitting atop it all. It’s a common ingredient in Chinese cooking, but I rarely see it used in American Chinese restaurants. It was a nice touch – imparting a nice textural and flavor element.
So far, Hong Kong Garden has my vote. And while the search will continue, it’ll take a moment’s rest. In the meantime, I know where to go for some pretty good Chinese.
Hong Kong Garden
1807 Columbia Ave, Lancaster
(717) 394-4336
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Living Organically
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Fishy Fish
Tony Wang's isn't #1...
Thus far, the only person to complain about the review below is Tony Wang, himself...
For two years now, I have read that the best Chinese, as voted by the Lancaster Newspaper readers, is Tony Wang’s. I’ll admit I didn’t want to visit a Chinese restaurant that sat along a tourist strip. That, in conjunction with the fact that Lancaster is not known for its vast Chinatown, made me shy away from trying it. But after several years of taking first place, I thought it was time to visit. And when I did, I could not understand what the buzz was about.
Outside of Tony Wang’s, you can’t help but know that Lancaster thinks it’s the best Chinese around, what with all the banners and such. The interior atmosphere itself is reminiscent of most Chinese restaurants I’ve visited, where everything is efficiently functional and the décor adorns the space with the appropriate ethnic flair.
That evening, we ordered the Hot & Sour soup ($2.50) and the Fried Dumplings ($6.50) for appetizers. The soup was hot. It was sour. But somehow when they came together, there was something rather bland about it, the flavors not combining to produce any kind of greatness. My husband joked, “See, this version is the Hot OR Sour soup.”
The Fried Dumplings came, and I was pleased to find that they were so hot, little tiny pockets of oil still bubbled on the surface – a good indication that the dumplings might have a nice crispiness to it. And indeed, they did. The pork nucleus was tasty, and the soy sauce-based dipping sauce with a touch of sweetness lent a good complement. My only minor criticism is the doughiness that seems to be redolent of Americanized Potstickers. In Asia, the skin of the dumpling is much thinner, more delicate. Regardless, I enjoyed the dish.
For the entrees, we got the Ma La Chicken ($10.75) and the special on the board, Beef Chow Fun ($8.75). The Ma La Chicken was the recommendation of our Chinese server. It hails from the Sichuan province and translates into “Numbing Spiciness.” So the anticipation was great. When it came, it had all the auspices of something delicious; lots of vegetables, a good amount of chicken, and a brick red-brown sauce that coated everything lusciously. We dug in and my first thought was, okay, this is really, quite unremarkable. The spicy fireworks I was awaiting were utterly missing. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t good. It was average. Inoffensive. Innocuous. On the positive side, the chicken was moist and tender, and the vegetables fresh and plentiful. But when all that doesn’t taste like much…
Lastly, the Chow Fun, a traditional Cantonese dish of stir-fried wide rice noodles. It’s one of my favorite dishes, but it can be a high-maintenance dish. It must be stir-fried with a super hot and high flame, which imparts a charred, caramelized flavor to the dish. Also means you have to be quick, yet gentle, so you don’t break the noodles. Oh, and control the amount of oil you use, you don’t want it to stick together, but please don’t make it slick. See what I mean? At the best Chinese restaurant in town, I would expect them to make Chow Fun very well. And yet, they don’t. The characteristic smoky, caramelized flavor was lacking. Sure, the noodles were kept intact, and the beef was tender, but it didn’t have the complexity in taste. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t good. It was average. Inoffensive. Innocuous.
I couldn’t help but wonder, why is this Lancaster’s most award-winning Chinese restaurant? Surely there is something better in town. Stay tuned, because I aim to find out.
Tony Wang’s Chinese Restaurant
2217 Lincoln Hwy E
Lancaster, PA 17602
(717) 399-1915